How to solve my yellow line issue?

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Don't Panic. Please wash hands.

    So a picture is worth a 100 words:

    https://i.imgur.com/cABIYc5.jpeg


    I'm getting yellow horizontal lines on a lot of my applications. I was wondering why anyone knows how this can happen? It's not every app, so I feel like it' just dud settings I have. I'm using an ASUS monitor that looks pretty good, so any advice would be helpful!


    Thanks ahead of time.

    Which model of Indivision? ECS, MK3 ? Wich Amiga? Original PSU?


    Clean the contacts with an old toothbrush and IPA, make sure that the Indivision is clicked very well on the Lisa chip if you use the MK3

    A1200 Rev2B OS 3.2| SanDisk CF64GB | Blizzard 1230 IV 64MB FPU 68882/50 | Indivision AGA MK3 | CA-PSU | Eizo S1933 | Bose Companion 2 series III

    A500 Rev6A OS 3.2| SanDisk CF16GB | ACA500+ V2 / Blizzard 1230 IV 32MB | Indivision ECS V3 | ACE2b | CA-PSU | Eizo S1933 | Bose Companion 2 series III

    A1200 Rev2B OS3.2.2 | Black Edition | SanDisk MSD32GB | PistormLite32 | Indivision AGA MK3 | RTG Picaso96 1280x1024| CA-PSU | Eizo S1933

    iAmiga 27" | OS 3.2 FS-UAE | SDD 1 TB | RTG Picaso96 2560x1440

    This does not look like an Indivision failure, but something that happens before Indivision - probably Agnus getting wrong data, displaying a sprite where there should be none.


    Same advice as Phil's: Check contacts and power supply, possibly check the game itself, launch from a different source (FDD<->HDD).


    Jens

    So it doesn't do that on a CRT - just the indivision though. I can show a video - it does it on simple apps but it all depends on the screen mode. I've launched it from my machine and see the composite is fine. Does that make a difference?


    I don't think the screen I'm showing ya has any sprites on it. It's just the title screen.


    When I boot on the workbench I don't get it though. But lower res screens I do. I'll be glad to collect more data to show ya - I'd LOVE it if I can get this working right. It was also working when I used a SCART to OSSC.


    It's def not just the game - it happens a lot. Even some of the graphics on the menu program show it. So it's def somewhere in the hardware line.

    Which model of Indivision? ECS, MK3 ?

    MK3


    Amiga 1200


    New PSU from a good builder. I can see about swapping it but don't think that'll cause it.


    I'll clean the contacts with IPA and a toothbrush. Maybe that's it.


    It's strange thought because it never happens with 1024x768 but does it a lot with the lower resolutions.

    Quote from foobar

    New PSU from a good builder.

    Names, photos - there's lots of crap out there. Please also read our PSU FAQ.



    Resolutions don't really make a difference for Indivision AGA MK3 - it always samples pixels at 28MHz (SHires), and will only react to the SHires bit set/unset if you actually tell it to do so in the config tool. So more info about correlations with software are really needed to find the root cause.


    Jens

    Quote

    Names, photos - there's lots of crap out there.



    I got a power supply that looks like this. I'll take pics in a few minutes.


    Quote


    will only react to the SHires bit set/unset if you actually tell it to do so in the config tool.

    I'll reflash the MK3 and see if that helps.

    That eBay link goes to a known-bad PSU: It uses a MeanWell chassis, which is not suitable for distant power sinks. It's OK for anything inside the same case using a short, think cable (max. 10cm), but it's no good for an Amiga.


    Jens

    Quote from foobar

    It's from electrowave in poland - are they pretty good?

    Same crap: Good chassis (MeanWell) used in the wrong context (distant sink). Electroware Poland even goes further and violates safety standards - at least on the unit that I have here (bought from a customer who had trouble, and I wanted to check his PSU).


    I suggest to send back that PSU for false advertising. It is not suitable for an expanded Amiga. See our FAQ. If you have an old Commodore PSU, just exchange the output caps and you have a MUCH better-suited PSU for your valuable Amiga.


    Jens

    Quote from foobar

    I think this guy is known to kick-ass. How about this one?

    That's exactly the one you've linked to in your first post. It's a MeanWell chassis that is no good for a power sink on a long cable.


    Quote from Tobias

    keelog and electroware are the same ppl iirc

    Not the same people, but the same sh*t.


    Get a Commodore PSU, re-cap it - that's currently the ONLY solution if you want a reliable PSU.


    Jens

    OK - I'm ordering one from this guy:


    I suppose that one would be good or is this a scam?


    Just to be clear though -


    The output is NOT yellow lining on the composite output or RGB but it *is* through the indivision. That can happen with a PSU?

    Quote from foobar

    I suppose that one would be good or is this a scam?

    It's the same crap in an original case. All these "vendors" do nothing but tinkering: They look at the output specs and believe that this is what arrives at the computer, not realizing that the cable drop needs to be taken care of if the computer is expanded with today's hardware.


    Again, don't go for any PSU that uses a "new chassis" - it can only cause trouble when heavily loaded.


    Further, I am not 100% sure if this is a PSU issue. It might as well be a simple cable issue - if you have one, try a different HDMI cable.


    Jens

    Got it. I feel like it might be related to being the 1280 resolution remapping.. it seems to only be when I'm on lower resolutions.. I try another setting for the lower res screens and reflash. I'll also try multiple HDMI cables.


    I'll update you tonight.

    So yup! You were right. The HDMI was not really a bad cord, but it was going through an HDMI switch. I'll try other HDMI ports and see if there's a difference, and probably buy a 1 ft high quality cord to go from the switch to the monitor, see if that cuts out the noise. I noticed that my monitor also has a VGA input - so I might use that input instead and use my HDMI switch for the other HDMI inputs aren't messed up.


    Thanks for the help! Appreciate it!

  • The last reply was more than 365 days ago, this thread is most likely obsolete. It is recommended to create a new thread instead.

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