MK3 / Amiga disaster

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Don't Panic. Please wash hands.
  • Gday,


    was testing out a board that had someone previously work on it (a1200) while waiting for my board to return and to enjoy the Indivision for the first time.


    It appears this board apart from being marginal / not working - had something that jagged the pin attached to rga6 on Lisa (pin 14 I believe? - third from bottom right facing the board. Putting this in back in snapped half of the bent over bit off.


    Is this vital for the operation of the mk3? Is there a way I can test the mk3 without having a working board here atm?


    thanks

  • I don’t have that board any longer, by marginal I meant the Amiga 1200 board itself. This was the second board I tested it on.

    My own 1200 board is off for repairs as I don’t have a scope to test signals, when I tested on my board I could see the Indivision logo come up, but still black screen.


    I’m starting to think a scope is my next investment for this hobby

  • All RGA lines are used by Indivision AGA MK3, and each one of them must have good connection.


    I don't quite understand what damage you are describing (if on the A1200 board or the MK3 board), but before trying anything else, each board needs to be repaired. Never try to operate anything known-good with anything known-bad.


    Jens

  • The pin on the Indivision is snapped off.


    I know I shouldn’t have tested on this board, in future I need to exercise patience :)


    is it easy to buy a new socket that I can put down myself?

  • is it easy to buy a new socket that I can put down myself?

    I can of course sell you a new socket with all mofidications already done to it for upside-down mounting, but you need to know about two challenges when exchanging the socket:


    1) the board is a multi-layer board with power supply layers in the middle. This means you need a very well-regulated soldering iron with at least 80 Watts, a short+wide tip and very quick reaction time. Even though a 50W Weller iron is a *very* good hobby device (probably even above hobby-level), it just won't cut it.


    2) the product is manufactured RoHS-compliant, meaning that there is no lead in the solder. This increases heat and precise regulation requirements even further.


    I take it that you've done soldering before, so additional tools like a solder pump, solder wick and flux are in your shop's selection - otherwise you probably wouldn't ask.


    Jens

  • I certainly do have such tools (Hakko and a T12 station, my electric pump is getting replaced atm) I've built many smd/through projects, maybe not as many layers though.

  • The connections to inner layers do have heat traps, but still, four connections into a fully-filled copper plane does pull some heat away. Another thing you could to is to cut away the socket itself and de-solder every pin one by one. This way, you can take your time, be very careful with each pin and verify the result of each pin removed right away, just by looking through the empty solder hole.


    Where on the planet are you?


    Jens

  • I am in Australia... the opposite end of the world :/

    The socket looks like it could easily pop in half like a lot of PLCC's, i could do each individual pin that way if that is indeed possible.

  • Shipping to Australia is about twice as expensive as the socket itself. However, there is no socket on the free market that has the properties of the ones we're using: The contacts are bent with tooling that has been made to our specifications, so the "grip point" is higher, closer to the upper edge of the insulator. Once the flicker fixer is installed, you can lift the board on the flickerfixer, and it won't fall off.


    We didn't make our own tooling for the insulator itself, as it would have been way too cost-prohibitive. Instead, these sockets are made with a standard insulator, which we modify on a CNC milling machine.


    If you or friends of your local Amiga user group (is there one in your area?) need something else, we could combine orders: Place an order, choose "wire transfer" as payment method and send me an eMail with the info that you want to add a PLCC upside-down socket. I'll send out the final invoice with everything from the shop order, plus the socket.


    Jens

  • No Amiga group here, hasn’t been one in my area for 20 years or so. If the offer still stands - i will get a socket added to my next purchase, your postage is very fast to Australia (took 3 days to a small town here!)

  • The last reply was more than 365 days ago, this thread is most likely obsolete. It is recommended to create a new thread instead.