I have an A2000 with a GVP 030 @ 40 MHZ, X-Surf 100 and Rapid Road with MUI 3.8 and Amiga OS 220.127.116.11 (Kickstart ROMS 3.1.4) and it all works fine. I'm wondering if it's the CPU libraries you are using. if any. I am using Thor's CPU libraries (the 030 library is a small one) on all my machines with no problems. The only other time I have had weird guru's or recoverable alerts is with bad RAM. Maybe do a RAM test just incase. Good luck with it!
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I fully expected that if I did have a problem that the culprit would have been the power supply (due to not meeting Commodore specifications) and NOT the Indivision AGA MK3. I am surprised, probably as much as you, that I actually have a very stable A1200 that is used a lot, with the current setup.
I know all to well about voltage drop at work and we often have to do the calculations and install the next cable size up to overcome the problem.
All communications cabling is sheilded from induced emf and noise.
I never said that MeanWell PSUs are bad - they are just not suitable as external power supplies for the Amiga.
I know Jens, we just call them Meanbad at work (different models for building automation) as a joke, as we have had a few old ones crap out.
I have noticed that Meanwell have changed the specs on a few data sheets I looked at for the RT-50B. I'm assuming mine is the 'newer' version.
That's of course the worst thing you can do. Please read our power supply FAQ and fix that - you're putting the system in danger.
LOL, danger must be my middle name as my A1200 (rev 2.B) with a Blizzard 1260 and SCSI is using a Meanbad chassis powersupply (4A on the 5V rail) that I put together as my old Commodore brick that started to smell like a fish market. It worked with a mechanical hard drive before I changed to a CF card setup. I was a bit worried when I got the Indivision AGA MK3, but it ran for over a day straight with no problems, and still does so. I guess mileage can vary for people.
I too have the back bar on the left side when using the config tool. I put it down to the SuperPlus screen mode as when I quickly test a normal PAL screen it gets rid of the black bar.
Yeah that works, but a hotkey without entering line edit would be great. As I said before, one bump of the mouse and 'whoop!' there goes your screen. No big deal as X in live edit does the trick, but just would be a nice feature to have a hotkey independent of live mode.
Pressing S does scale the picture down to actual pixels.
I have three modes setup:
1. 640x512 PAL HI for full screen games
2. 640x512 PAL LO for 3/4 screen games
3. 600x600 SuperPlus for workbench
Workbench is fine, no problems there. I have setup the two PAL modes for different game screen modes but I now realise that the MK3 can't switch between them as they 'appear' the same. Maybe a hotkey that switches between 'like' modes would be the answer on the MK3 (without entering live edit)?
I have to say that I'm pretty damn impressed with this incarnation of the Indivision, live edit is awesome. It's has also helped me set up my other two ECS MK2 Indivisions better from learning more about the config tool and how the screen modes react.
I have set up 640x512 PAL HI and 640x512 PAL LO.
Now I just need to know if there is a convenient way to switch between these similar modes or if it can be automatically done since both modes have 313 pixels per line.
At the moment I have to know what screen mode a certain game is and put that screen mode at the top of the list or enter live config and press X again (don't bump the mouse arrrgghh!)
Also posted on EAB:
I finally have received, installed and configured my AGA MK3 to my liking. I have used two profiles, one for Workbench and the other for games. The only configuration issue I am having is trying to get the 3/4 screen games stretched to take up the whole screen without upsetting the already setup full screen games. In both situations there is 313 pixels per line so I don't know how the config tool can tell the difference between the two modes. Either that or I'm more of a noob that I first thought lmao.
Agony - set up perfectly.
Defender of the Crown - would like to stretch vertically.
The only reasons I chose to put the PCB that way is:
A) the VGA cable is always the same around for when I switch Amigas, which I do a bit (I know OCD, right!),
B) I thought there would be a nice strong bond with the hot glue between the PCB and motherboard. Not pushing down too hard while gluing the surfaces means there should be enough insulation from the glue and lamination on the motherboard so that there would be no chance of the pins scratching through to the motherboard's ground plane.
C) I have a lot of faith that those electrons are pretty good, under normal circumstances, of staying where they belong
Here are a few shots for you. My A1200 motherboard likes to lift up a little bit near the power connector so makes the port look uneven, when I press down on that corner, all looks good. Maybe a blob of hot glue will fix that too. At least with the output you can see no problems here so Jens and Tobias are spared another test bench situation lol
I finally got around to installing my MK3. I got the VGA/HDM! board and buzzed off the extra PCB on each side of the VGA socket using a bench grinder. With the PCB trimmed back on both sides to the VGA socket, it fits nicely where the modulator was (No copper traces were hurt in the process). I just used some hot glue to hold it in place and made sure there was enough shielding for the screws in the VGA socket to grab onto. It is very solid and everything works well. I should have taken pictures, but forgot about this thread until now. A bit of filing is needed for port clearance on the case as it does sit a few mm higher than the other ports.
A quick video to show it working https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fqBKoTkP_HE
I totally get what everyone is saying about the technical side of this, I wasn't going to debate this as I'm certainly no expert in this department. It's more of a curiosity rather than a problem. Fact remains - that it does work on ALL my original hardware, regardless of the technical reasons, and I was just interested in why this was so. I did enjoy the investigation, but now we are done.
Now I will have to rummage through some more retro gear and see what next I can pester Jens and Tobias about
Very interesting! You're right Tobias, what can we do and test now? lol
I'm not packing any equipment away just incase we think of something else.
Okay, back with some interesting results.
I used a 1541, 1541-II, 1541-II with JiffyDOS kernal, 1541 Ultimate 2.
All IEC leads were the same standard length.
C64 Reloaded voltage was 4.91
Original C64 voltage was 4.98
C64MK2 -> 1541-II (ON) -> 1541 (OFF) -> Ultimate = working
C64MK2 -> 1541-II/JDOS (ON) -> 1541 (OFF) -> Ultimate = not working
C64MK2 -> 1541-II (OFF) -> 1541 (ON) -> Ultimate = working
C64MK2 -> 1541-II (OFF) -> 1541 (OFF) -> Ultimate = not working
I tried the C64MK2 with JiffyDOS enabled and disabled, same result. IEC Burst is default, being off.
You can tell when it's not going to work as the red LED on the Ultimate stays on.
Original C64 - all tests worked.
Just out of coincidence stumbled over this
Interesting. Apparently my one has a MOSFET in it (Don't ask me, all I know is what it stands for lol).
Mine drops the voltage by approx. 0.04V. Probably a few different designs out there.
I didn't use it in these tests.
Hi guys, I just got in from work so I will set the experiment up shortly, after a coffee of course
Tobias I noticed you have the Plus version. Mine is the version before, the non-plus with firmware 3.7 installed (latest).
The way I was trying to load is first to mount a .d64 image and back to the C64 for the usual LOAD"*",8,1
This is where is fails but if you do a mount+run it works, although I didn't try a multiload program for this.
So my other tests were done using C64MK2 -> 1541-II -> Ultimate 1541-II. Both IEC cables being the same standard length.
Jens I will connect my laptop to C64MK2 and see what setting are in place, like IEC Burst. Back soon with more results.
Actually I can help you there. I have another two working 1541 disk drives in my storage if that will help with tests. I just hope I have enough cables.
How would you like me to set them up to test to get the results your after? Put them all in the chain while being off to see what happens?
My place will look like a copy party from the 80's lol
Lmao, really? I think you'll find that more than half the products on the market at the moment aren't covered by any sort of liability insurance as the work is done by retro enthusiasts for other retro enthusiasts. If the circuit is so simple, given that you previously never heard of such a device, then humour me and tell me how 'your' version would work.
I don't own a Commodore MPS 1200 printer anymore so I can't conducts any tests on that for you unfortunately. I smashed it back in 1992 when the blasted thing wouldn't print my essay that was due the next day for school lol.
Look Jens, I feel that because I have pointed out an operational difference between the Reloaded MKII and a real C64 you have taken it personally. This was never meant to be the case. If I thought the whole Reloaded project was shit then I would have never bought one in the first place. It is a fantastic product and I use it as my main C64 machine. I was just pointing out an observation that I noticed, and did say it's no big deal. But the point does still remain - 4 different C64's, two different power supplies, and the issue is NOT there. Maybe you could buy/borrow/steal a 1541 Ultimate 2 (I have the non plus version) and do further testing yourself.
I honestly feel if anyone is under attack, it's me. I have tried to help out and have been a good customer of iComp products (because they are good products and we, the enthusiasts, value them). You no doubt can see what I have bought and the list is almost as long again with iComp items purchased through AmigaKit. Good way to alienate customers with such an attitude. Anyway, if there is anyway I still can further assist, I will!
I think most people back in the day had one disk drive and maybe a printer, which would have been off but still connected. Anyway I have some more measurements to ponder. This time I also included a different power supply as well.
White brick type Power Supply full or resin (same one as before)
Output from Power Supply unloaded - 5.2V
CIA - 4.74V
CIA with C64 Saver - 4.71V
Black type Power Supply old transformer style, no resin
Output from Power Supply unloaded - 5.2V
CIA - 4.92V
CIA with C64 Saver - 4.85V
In all scenarios the C64 worked without issue with the drive turn off connected on the IEC chain.
Also voltage readings taken didn't change at all whether the disk drive was on or not.