Tried to install the Indivision Mk3, turned into a disaster

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Don't Panic. Please wash hands.
  • I finally got around to installing my Indivision Mk3 and was as careful as I could possibly be taking my A1200 apart, but it turned out to be not my day. Let me preface this with I know how this all sounds, but I've been repairing electronics and working on C64s for years and never had anything go this catastrophically wrong.

    I took the board out of the case and removed the RF shields to get everything ready. I wanted to make sure to support the board underneath while I snapped the (presumably tight fitting) sockets on top. I had some difficulty snapping the socket down, but everything felt lined up and looked straight and flat, so pushed and snapped it down. I then tried to snap the CIA adapter in place. Powered everything up and I wasn't getting any output on the Invidision or RGB. I removed the power and took the Indivision off and despite my best efforts to be careful, turns out it wasn't seated correctly. In the process of snapping it on, I also snapped one of the small nearby 1206 68 ohm resistors in half *facepalm*. I tried to remove the CIA adapter and wound up snapping the side off the adapter's socket. Also (and I can't figure out how, but I'm certainly open to any ideas you may have), the motor on my 3.5" floppy drive no longer spins after this debacle. Possibly just a coincidence? Static discharge to the drive? I really don't know. I swapped my A500 drive in to test and it still works fine so it appears I didn't damage the A1200,

    I bodged in a temporary 68 ohm resistor and that fixed the video problem and was able to get an output on the indivision, so it appears to be ok. That being said, once my 68 ohm resistors arrive and I replace the bodge with the proper SMD part, I'm going to try this again, hopefully without destroying anything else. The CIA adapter is pretty much useless at this point though. Can I purchase a new CIA adapter through icomp? Perhaps the cheaper/easier option may be for me to desolder and replace the broken socket on the adapter if you can point me to a part # from digikey or mouser.

  • Can I purchase a new CIA adapter through icomp?

    Sure, just contact me through e-Mail or personal mail with your customer iD, order ID or warranty ID of the product - any of them will let me find your shipping address and I can make out an invoice. The easiest way is probably to reply to the eMail you got from the shop system when you ordered it. I sure hope that the 84-pin socket of the main flicker fixer is still OK!

    Perhaps the cheaper/easier option may be for me to desolder and replace the broken socket on the adapter if you can point me to a part # from digikey or mouser.

    Desoldering the 44-pin socket for the CIA adapter is not worth it, as it's a purely passive part. For the 84-pin socket, it's definitely worth it, but hopefully not required.

    These sockets are not available from any of the resellers, as we've had new tolling made for changing the bend shape of the socket pins. These are now bent in a way that they make contact "slightly higher", which becomes "lower" when used upside-down. The plastic part of the socket would have needed an even more expensive tooling, so I opted to do CNC milling on the sockets, as this is more cost-effective than spending $20k on a new plastic mold.Since we only started making our own sockets with the launch of Indivision AGA MK2, we already have the 84-pin socket as spare part for 10,- EUR plus VAT and shipping. Many Indivision AGA MK1 customers have done the socket swap on their unit.

    The flicker fixer will work without the CIA adapter. You should get a picture "out of the box", but this will of course require the socket to have contact on all pins, and no damage to the electronics in the previous installation attempt. Take a good look at the socket's corners, as that's where I'd expect it to crack.

  • I jusst got private eMail from the customer that everything was resolved and not even spare parts had to be shipped - mbarszcz was able to seat all components after replacing the 68 ohm resistor near the Alice chip. Marking this one "resolved".

  • The last reply was more than 365 days ago, this thread is most likely obsolete. It is recommended to create a new thread instead.