Posts by Tobias

Very nice!

1.0 will mark the time when we can say it is 100% compatible (not a single failing test) in cartridge mode... we are coming closer to this, but also every small step is getting harder.

As for an update.... yeah, well. Like Peter said - its hard to tell. You can be sure though that we are well aware of the fact that an update is long overdue - and we are pushing as hard as we can.

Mmmmh. My guess would be that power-on event would have to be handled by the sleeping machine itself, the BIOS, or whatever equivalent on the raspi

If they are not hard to find... I'd be happy to get one of those too Those "PAL-60" VICs are really very interesting also for demo code

64 cycle (6567R56A) VICII was the first VICII that was released in the US (so its NTSC). This type of VICII is kind of rare, and it will cause problems with many C64 games, it has the "sparkle" problem, and perhaps other issues. If you ever stumble about this type of VICII, store it at a safe place, don't use it Only the first batch of C64s in the US had these, i think.

All other (NTSC) VICII that came after that are 65 cycle, so yes, also classic breadbin style C64s (most of them) have them.

As for compatibility with the Chameleon, the 64 cycle version is NOT supported (we don't even have one of these) - but as said, this is no problem in practise, as most (NTSC) C64s you will find are 65 cycle anyway.

congrats \o/ have fun!

Looks to me as if the WB in UAE is simply using more colors (bitplanes)

Was going to suggest that, too Although i find a "half working" core a bit unlikely :=)

Odd, and this is with default settings and just drive 1 enabled on ID8?

No idea what could cause this... as said, when it hangs at "searching for" it usually (with real hardware) means something on the IEC bus is wrong (dead CIA, broken 1541 or sth like that). But that really shouldnt be the case when you are testing in standalone mode

Please try another thing... In the main menu press "1" to start the retro replay image, press f7 to go to basic, then "@" and return. this should give you the DOS status message... does that hang too?

pwsoft any ideas?

Please do the following steps:

- reflash the latest firmware: http://wiki.icomp.de/w/images/b/b5/Chameleon_Beta-9i.zip

- the flashing will reset the settings to defaults, so enable drive 1 id 8. leave everything else alone. save the settings

- powercycle the device

now the best test would be mounting a d64 in standalone mode, without any external drive connected. mount the image in the file browser (Alt/CBM+M) and try if it works in basic.

the behaviour you describe typically happens when there is some kind of problem with the IEC bus, like two drives with the same ID... did you have an external drive connected perhaps?

And here is the video on Twitch

Are you using the s-video output? That already has a 330 Ohm series resistor, so you shouldnt get those problems

That said, 6526A is not needed (the A only indicates its rated for 2MHz, which is not needed for the C64)

I don't think you are interpreting the results correctly.... "Destination Host not reachable" means just that, it can also indicate a network misconfiguration, a broken cable, or whatever. (you'll get the same if you dont connect the cable at all).

A somewhat better test to check if the connection is working correctly is... plug in the cable to the rrnet and watch the LEDs. the green one should light up (LINK establish). now watch the other LED, it should be off. issue the ping command - and the LED should blink in regular intervals (a few times per second). and when you stop the ping it should stop blinking.

as for flashing the alternative firmware.... its a double edged sword. yes, it may help with some problems (such as unexpected crashes due to random network traffic) and has DHCP etc - however, since flashing was originally not a feature for endusers, we can not guarantee that flashing will work correctly (and if it doesnt, you might need another C64 to reflash it again).

that said - do you have some kind of "carrier card" (such as a retro replay) you can use to check if the network setup is working? that'd take the rrnet ROM out of the equation and makes analyzing the problem a bit easier.

"Do you know if the Codenet server in the alternative firmware is less sensitive to network traffic or is a newer/patched Codenet server?"

It is indeed a bit more robust, worth a try.

The original codenet server is indeed a bit sensible for random traffic on the network... And indeed, when the power-on message works and you can start the codenet server, then using it should work as well.

Try if you can "ping" the C64 (when the codenet server is running). If that works, codenet should also work.

Ok, so the first thing to check is the protecion diode D8 and the fuse F1 ... for this the safest way is to put your multimeter into continuity testing mode, this is usually indicated by a small "diode" symbol, or a musical note, often located next to the resistance mode range select (see the previous picture (at about "11 o'clock"). You can verify your multimeter is in this mode by just making the two probes touch each other, it should show "0" or perhaps even beep. Make sure you understand what it shows when its "open" (the probes do not touch) and "closed" (they do touch).

Now, locate D8 and F1 on the board (shown in the picture below). Do NOT connect the power supply to the board.

Now put one probe at the top solder joint, the other at the bottom solder joint of F1 - you should see the "0" and/or hear the beep. You may need to apply a bit of pressure, or twist the probes a bit to make proper contact, as the surface of the solder joint may be oxidized. If this does not work, then the fuse has done its job (and needs to be replaced). Measure in both directions (once red probe on top, black on bottom - once black probe on top, red on bottom) to be sure its "closed" both ways.

Next is the protection diode D8. Measure like above, in both ways. In one way it should be "open", the other way the multimeter will show some number (mine says 460mV, with black probe on top, red on bottom). If it shows "closed" in one way or the other, then the diode did its job and "tripped"/"melted" and needs to be replaced.

not sure what the question is, but did you see this and this?

OK, well First of all switch the multimeter to the highest DC range it offers. If the probes are not fixed to the multimeter, connect the probes to ground (black one) and voltage input (red one) like in the picture. Stick the red one into the plug of the PSU, put the other (black) one on the outside of the plug. Make sure the two dont touch each other (that will make a short circuit and possibly destroy the PSU). Power on the PSU and read the measured voltage (should be around 12V). Now you can switch the range of the multimeter down to the smallest range that is still more than 12V to get a more accurate result. You can safely hold and touch the plug and probes in the process to make sure they dont make a short.

I'll make more pictures tomorrow that show what to measure in the C64R, need to remove a bit of the chaos around my desk first =)

That sounds doable then. Start with measuring the output voltage of your PSU when it is NOT connected to the C64R, it should be very close to 12V I can make a few pictures then that show a few points on the board and the expected voltage.