Posts by Rockwater

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    I believe Jens mentioned this... somewhere... previously. Probably buried in one of these threads. Anyhow, I'm trying to find that small piece of software that sets the workbench overscan color to black, so the right edge of the screen with the Indivision doesn't visibly show the crawling scan lines.

    I haven't done in-depth testing yet, but I'm seeing similar on-screen artifacts. I'm currently running the VGA output to a Gefen MFP (rather expensive video & audio switcher) and then out via HDMI to an LCD monitor.

    I assume the sidecar bus of the A500 is a mix of the CPU bus socket and Zorro slots in the A2000? I was rather wondering if it were possible to make a PCB card shim that would interface an A2000 slot to the ACA500 connector.

    Of course, this might be in the realm of "it's possible" while also being not at all optimal.

    All I can say is: be very careful. Jens is sending me a new edge connector for my ACA1233n due to a pin getting smashed during an install into an A1200. The ACA worked great with the ACA500+ cards I have, but the A1200 must have a rough edge on the expansion connector. I'll have to desolder the edge connector and solder on a new one... which is going to be a whole lot of not very much fun.

    Before I try another accelerator in the A1200 I'm going to take some 600 grit sandpaper (or finer) and carefully chamfer the edges of the card connector. Not something I'd recommend in general, but after killing my ACA1233n I'm going to make sure it doesn't have anything to catch on the card slot pins.


    You might, just to make sure, check in the card slot of your 1221ec just to make sure all the pins look fine.

    One of the "A500 PSUs" I bought off eBay is actually a Cisco equipment power brick with the end plug cut off and the square power DIN soldered on. I happen to have a handful of those square power connectors laying about, so I bought another of the Cisco bricks to make a second PSU. They go for about $10-$15, so it's quite a bit more economical than the various aftermarket handmade units that go for $60 to $80.


    This particular brick is 30W, which might not be enough for a machine loaded up with accelerators and whatnot.



    Cisco 1700 power adapter 34-0874-01

    Pull the ACA and inspect the card connector on it. My ACA1233n had mashed a pin, evidently due to the card edge snagging on it, and mashed it flat inside the connector. The result was a black screen.

    My lesson: check the A1200 edge connector (make sure it doesn't have any prominent dings or edges) and be sure the ACA is perfectly square to it as you slide it into place.

    Yes, I purchased this about a year ago as part of my A500 builds.

    When I get a chance I'm going to take fine grit sandpaper to the PCB edges of the A1200 edge connector, just to make sure there aren't any rough bits to bind on those pins.

    I just unpacked an A1200 today, and after pulling it apart, cleaning it, re-trimming the metal shroud since it was hacked badly by whoever modified it previously, reseating the AGA Indivision board, and re-assembling with the hodge-podge of screws with three missing, I booted it up to test to make sure it was working. All seems well there so far.


    Then I pulled apart my ACA500+ case and removed the ACA1233n from it and carefully seated it into the A1200. It would not boot up at this point. After that Indivision power on banner it did nothing.


    After some double checking I was beginning to suspect that I have an only partially working A1200. So I decided to put the ACA500+ and 1233n back together in their case for safe keeping. However, the 1233n wasn't lining up with the bolt hole in the case. After some inspection I discovered that the female card slot connector appears to have had an internal failure of some kind, which is rather odd as I've never seen a pin fold up like this inside of one of these connectors.


    Now, the question is: do I ship this back to Individual for a repair job, or can I simply get a replacement connector shipped to me. I'm comfortable with desoldering and soldering on a replacement and have the tooling to do so. Whichever works based upon the warranty of the card.