Posts by 0xDEADBEEF

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Don't Panic. Please wash hands.

    Yeah, about that. i do not believe in electrons ;-) I think the bits are carried around the boards by little dwarves or maybe ants. It is the curse of being software guy. At my electronics class all I could do was to make blue smoke ;-)

    So I was thinking about using off the shelf DROK converter for 5V, which should keep the voltage constant at the source, but obviously cannot compensate for increasing drop on the cable as load increases ;( and a "TPS5430 Positive Negative Dual Output Module Regulator Power Supply Module with Switching 12V Output" and just hook them up to some 20V PSU I have laying around.

    It is probably bad idea. Plus, I do not know if their startup times are the same and if there is any sequencing for power rails in Amiga power supply.

    OK, enough bad ideas ;-)

    Getting UL and/or CE listed PSU in US seems to be impossible for mere mortals. Amazon is full of burn-your-house down stuff when you search for 12V PSUs for LEDs. That is why I think 20V laptop power supplies are better choice, While there are many fakes, it is not that hard to buy something directly from Dell or whatnot. I do not know if your PSU-CA needs to be certified together with AC-DC PSU, but I think maybe better option would be to sell just the converter box and let people provide their own 12V PSU?


    I am tempted to get couple adjustable buck converters (although ones with -12V are hard to find) and cobble something together to power my A1200 in meantime ;-) They are adjustable so I could compensate for drop on the cable,

    Well, I guess I need a better PSU. Can't do much with my ATX ;(

    So I wonder, which ebay 110V PSU is the least bad? ;-)

    elektronika4u (link removed)

    electroware (link removed)

    or this? (link removed)

    Or A-Power (link removed)


    Also, since you develop power supplies, maybe you could consider something like just the converter box that takes any off the shelf 19.5/20V laptop power supply with VRMs for 12, 5 and -12V and regulation hardware with a short cable to connect to Amiga, this way it wouldn't need special versions for US and EU (and UK) or other regions., just run off regulated 20V provided by off the shelf PSU?

    Otherwise, what is the timeframe for your US version of Amiga PSU?

    OK, so you know just enough about electronics to be dangerous.

    So true ;-)

    Yeah, I get your point about PSU, but I really do not have many options here in US.

    As for clearance between the socket and SMD component, I did take off some more plastic there, and pushed the socket, the SMD component subsequently made an indentation in the plastic, so I suspect on my board it is mounted very close to Lisa chip.

    I will probe all the socket pins on top of the Indivision PCB with DSO Mini to see if any of them is not connected.

    Is there any databook/PDF that shows mapping of the socket through hole pins to chip pins?

    I did wash Lisa with contact cleaner and isopropyl alcohol. Will try scraping a bit with a toothbrush.

    I have a microscope but it has a base so can't use it on a big board. Will try to find my old 2MP Celestron.

    My soldering is horrible (I am a software engineer), but I can try touching up the pins with TS100 as the last resort.

    Indivision sort of works, the live config tool (Ctrl-Shift-Tilde) works, and the display is sharp and nice, flashing firmware works, so I can live with it as it is. Not being able to use the config tool is more of a psychological problem ;-)

    Also, the config tool does show some stuff, for instance it shows that the display mode is 253 lines, which is probably wrong. (I have a PAL Amiga in US).

    If the config tool does not see Indivision I guess Indivision is not piggybacking on data/address lines properly but it still has power, clocks and color data lines?

    Well, there certainly has been some interference between the SMD component and the socket and I tried to sand little bit of plastic off the socket to be able to push it deeper. While that was accomplished, it did not help with the problem. The settings program still does not recognize Indivision but couple times it managed to read EDID. flashtool does work though.

    The socket is seated as deep as I could push it. I can push double folded Post-It (paper) under it, except for bottom left corner which seems a bit more space, enough for 4 Post-Its.

    Thanks.

    The PSU is rather strong, it is repurposed PC power supply, 400W or something thereabout) that I made a while ago with original cable from the previous PSU.

    I think I am getting problems with Lisa chip connections. I have HP Lisa with a SMD component next to it. It looks like it fits, but there is maybe tiny bit of space between PCB and the socket. I do not think the socket is resting on the SMD component and I have used considerable amount of force and tried to remove it and apply few times. Maybe it can still be pressed in deeper.

    FWIW Indivision does produce some display so it is getting some data off the chips. It does not always produce OSD overlay though.

    I use both RGB-VGA adapter and Indivision AGA MK3 and both were showing green. Composite was OK.

    But after a while, now everthing works correctly. I guess the board warmed up and now it works? Bad solder somewhere on motherboard?

    Also, my Indivision works, but when I start the control program it tells me IndivisionAGAmk3 hardware not found. Continue?

    Strangely enough flashtool info works, and shows the overlay and so does flashtool flash firmware from rescue disk

    So today I got new ACA1211lc and Indivision MK3. Yay.

    I have installed the accelerator, powered my A1200 on and it worked, but colors on RGB (23pin to VGA adapter) are all wrong, grey is green, workbench is all weird.

    It looks correct on composite out. It is green both on the output from Indivision and on RGB.

    So I think something got fried or broken as I was installing the accelerator. It worked correctly before with Blizzard PPC.

    Does anyone have any idea what went wrong? It sort of looks like I see YUV instead of RGB?