Just wanted to give some feedback on HDMI audio. My Onkyo AV amplifier won't believe there is audio there and just stays silent. If I plug the HDMI straight into my Samsung TV then there is audio, but the pitch is incorrect (Worms in Worms DC sound like they are pitched down) and the audio seems to stutter like it's coming through a tremolo pedal. I've tried changing the sample rate between 44.1kHz and 48kHz and it just sounds the same.
Posts by gavinsaxby
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Don't Panic. Please wash hands.
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Just a short note that this can't be on the flicker fixer itself, as that doesn't have a C303. I assume you found that bad solder joint on the A1200 board.
Yes, on my Amiga itself, I wouldn't take my soldering iron to the Indivision when it's so new!
I am off on holiday today so I will need to ship the Indivision back in a weeks time. Do I need to get in touch over email for an RMA number? -
Any pressure at all on the right hand side of the board causes the picture to break up, moving the ribbon cable can even bring it on and also cause the blacks to smear to a dark green. Even if I hold the Indivision board down onto the motherboard hard and then just lightly put my finger on the right hand side it can either induce the fail or cure it. I've had to remove it for now, it's just absolutely maddening and my wife and I want to play a few rounds of Worms Directors Cut tonight, completely impossible with the Indivision in. Shame, because when it works, it looks lovely.
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Spoke too soon, that didn't fix it, went again after half an hour.
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Got V1.4 tool installed and then found that C303 had a bad joint on it and was intermittent. I've fixed that and so far, so good!
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I've just reflowed every leg on Lisa, got everything refitted and the picture is stable for now. I will leave it for a while and see what happens when it heats back up again.
Nope, still flickering. My money is on the BGA having at least one bad ball...
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This is a hint at a cold solder joint between Lisa and the main board. Most of the time, such a cold solder joint doesn't do much, but with a product plugged on top of the chip, the pins of Lisa will of course move by a fraction of a millimeter, and a cold solder joint will then take effect.
I managed to take a picture of such a cold solder joint quite a few years ago when my first A600 accelerator came out, but I need to dig deeper where that could be. It's not in the ACA630 project directory... Please remove the flicker fixer and take a very close look at the area where the pins of Lisa are soldered; you are looking for a tiny crack in the heel of the solder, most likely on one of the corner pins. Simply adding a but of flux and re-heating that solder joint for a split second already does the trick.
I've just reflowed every leg on Lisa, got everything refitted and the picture is stable for now. I will leave it for a while and see what happens when it heats back up again.
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I don't think it's the power supply. If I push on the Indivision, the flickering stops, as soon as I remove pressure, it starts again. It's like there is a bad connection on the PCB that moves once it's heated up. When I press on the board, it doesn't move against Lisa at all or shift further down.
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It's a standard, heavy brick power supply although oddly I have just looked at the label and it says it's a 25W supply for an A600. The only other thing I have in the system is a 4GB CF card as my hard drive. I have an external floppy enclosure with a Gotek in it, but the graphics still misbehave whether that it plugged in or not.
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Video for clarity. https://imgur.com/a/oEWsrUD
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Update, after being on for 5 minutes this started to happen which looks slightly different to last time. https://imgur.com/a/NCUnPxi
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Great thanks, got the new config tool on, firmware upgraded and have moved the resistor and the fit looks better now. Will leave it running a few hours and see what happens. Thanks for your help!
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Is the firmware file in the 1.3 ADF the core from yesterday? The date given in the OSD is still 20200812 and I would have expected this to change to 20200813?
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Hi Jens,
picture can be found here: https://imgur.com/VUmzmZ5
it's the edge of the resistor closest to Lisa which is just catching on the socket. I am OK at SMT rework, I can have a go at physically moving the resistor outwards by a millimeter, that would probably be just enough. I am not sure you could take much more material off the PLCC socket without damaging the pins. I guess you put them on a mill before soldering.
Regards,
Gavin.
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I seem to have an intermittent problem with the picture breaking up and flickering. It appears to be heat or physical board related, if I leave the machine on more than 2/3 minutes the Amiga graphics start to flicker, though the OSD is stable. It is physically impossible to get the PLCC socket to sit flat on the motherboard because R261A fouls the socket, the cutout made in the socket is nothing like large or deep enough. I can't just leave the top off the machine and no matter how many times I remove the board and refit it, this problem won't resolve. Any hints?
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So it's gone from bad to worse for me. I got the relevant files onto my A1200 and halfway through doing the copy, the sreen just started to flicker really badly and the top got chopped off. I went back to the normal RGB output, flashed it to yesterdays core and rebooted, but it's still the same so it's now even less usable than it was. https://imgur.com/a/gQBv1vG
Seems that the board moved a fraction, after powering off and reseating it it is OK now.
Next question, how to enable the HDMI audio because playing Worms Directors Cut without sound is no fun whatsoever.
