Indivision 1200 AGA MK2cr

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Don't Panic. Please wash hands.
  • Hi,

    I have a similar ghosting effects, similar issue to


    usualy down the middle of the screen like that.

    and found a few things

    - first, it was caused by loose connectors between the vga dvi adapters, once tightened screws they went away

    - card was a bit loose, once pushed down abit, they went away.

    - card connection a bit loose, i pulled the pins out abit on the socket to create a tighter connection, with a tooth pic

    Now, however, these glitches seem to be difficult to get rid of..... they don't seem to go away that easily, with any of the above steps, but i found if I open the amiga and put my thumb across the solder line of the socket that sits on the lisa(?) chip, the glitches disappear completely, and i see a lovely stable image. (If I put my thumb on the double solder line of your socket, the row closest to say the amiga space bar, and in line with it, just above the lisa chip).

    I am just wondering what you think the issue is? May i guess :) ... maybe I need a heatsink? or... please let me know of any ideas...

    Only my thumb works, if I push down on the same point with a ball of bluetack and the same pressure nothing happens, the glitches artifacts or ghosting continues.

    PS am I doing something risky? by touching it?


    PPS I am using 2 psus, one a micronik infinity tower psu, and one a replacement one from electroware (link removed) It seems worse with the c64 one.

  • I am just wondering what you think the issue is?

    I'd like to see a picture of the problem, as it may be "everything" from your description. A simple board fix may solve it, but it might as well be a soldering problem under Lisa or a power supply problem. Also, please post a picture of the unit itself - I'm not entirely sure what version you're talking about. The product name you've given points to the version from 2008 (black circuit board).

    I am using 2 psus, one a micronik infinity tower psu, and one a replacement one from electroware (link removed) It seems worse with the c64 one.

    The electroware PSU is based on a MeanWell chassis, which is not designed to be used in a situation where there's a long cable between power supply and power sink. We have lots of support cases that have been resolved after customers went back to their original Commodore PSU, and we're currently in the process of making our own Amiga PSU solution, as other 3rd party PSU makers don't seem to get all the hints that I've been throwing for over a year now.

    The tower PSU is probably based on an ATX PC power supply? If so, that also has bad regulation on the 5V rail. PC power supplies mostly have the 12V rail as their main regulation rail, and the 5V rail (which is the Amiga's main rail) is totally off the charts when the 12V rail is "mostly un-loaded". You should really only use a PC power supply if you have several hundred watts of extra power consumers in the system, and even then you need to carefully check the 5V rail for proper voltage (between 4.9V and 5.1V) inside the Amiga.

  • Thanks for the reply, I will try and get a video of the artifects in the next week or so..

    To clarify: it was difficult to get rid of the ghosting with the electroware psu, however I have reattached the Micronik one which is an AT PSU. It does not happen that often there, but I will try and get a video of it next time...

  • I recognize this from the video. I had this when i was trying to configure the Indi on my a1200 after i had done a clean installation of os 3.1.4 and then trying to import my settings. For some reason it wouldnt import my custom VGA modes. At that point i had the same artifacts as in youre video, but they seemed more constant only at the top of the screen, mostly in the white icons of directories.

    After i did a compleet reset of the settings and reflashed the indi, everything went back to normal without these artifacts. After this 'reset' i setup my indi again.

    I now use a 800x600 for all modes and set it to be exact 50hz (i dont use 1280x512), this way switching from interlaced to non-interlaced sweems smoother too.

    Ow, i'm using an Original light weight commodore a500 psu (recapped).

  • S-Hires is a double-CAS mode, which sometimes causes this problem. I tracked it down to be a timing problem betwen Alice and the memory chips, which can be solved by adding a 100pF capacitor from CCK to Vcc. You can do that weither directly on the main board, or on the flicker fixer: There's an unpopulated component labelled "R24" - you can solder an 0805-sized 100pF capacitor there.

    If a change of power supplies improves the situation, you may also measure the voltage at the floppy connector - just to see how much really arrives at the main board with the Mikronik setup you have there.

  • Is this model of Indi Vampire V1200 compatibile? Needs fixes like ECS one?

    If the Vampire guys have learned a bit from the Indivision ECS V2 experience, they should ahve moved their registers to a different mirror. If they didn't learn, we may have the possibility to use a different mirror of the chip registers, but won't do so unless this service is being paid for.

  • Goodmorning everyone
    I need an indivision mk2 aga
    Could you tell me where to find it it seems that the product is out of stock and no longer built by Individual computer

    tank you

  • We're working on a new version - please monitor the shop site or register/log in and subscribe to product-related news by ticking the box at the top of the product description (this box is only shown to logged-in users). Note that the shop site needs a different login from this forum for security reasons.

  • Hi,

    I proceeded to register/log in on the shop site.
    One question: I have an indivision 1200 aga mk2 I think it is defective because the video output is green yellow, can it be repaired?
    Thanks in advance for your reply


  • If it's only wrong colours, then it's very likely that it can be repaired, yes. Please send the unit to the company address and include a short letter describing what to do with the unit.

  • Thanks Jens and mbruines197703 for the advice about screen modes + cap - I might look at that. (Just reading it now sorry)

    Also, yes, I noticed the other day, that Pal: High Res Laced is working okay for me (640x512) with no artifects .. so it could be just that mode, alright.

    Some other notes, that may not be of too much interest:

    - I added a fan ontop of the indivision card as at seemed hot, and my S-Hires mode was cleaner for longer (clean display for around 1 hour instead of the usual 30 mins or so) with the Micronik PSU. However the Micronik PSU has now started to die on me (the amiga would restart randomly) so i went back to the electroware PSU.

    - so the Pal: HIgh Res Laced mode, it is now with the electorware PSU, and seems it is working okay for me!

    For the wrong colors, in my abuse of the card trying to see if it was loose etc. I noticed the colors sometimes went wrong, but after reseating the card properly the colors were okay again .. maybe you could check it's seated on the amiga fully just in case before sending for repair..

  • However the Micronik PSU has now started to die on me (the amiga would restart randomly) so i went back to the electroware PSU.

    Electroware is that Polish company that uses MeanWell chassis with no technical modification - BAD IDEA. That chassis has insufficient regulation and way too high ripple on the 5V rail for an Amiga. In other words: It is not suitable for an Amiga, so it's being sold with false advertising. You have a right to return that anytime.

  • The last reply was more than 365 days ago, this thread is most likely obsolete. It is recommended to create a new thread instead.