Individision AVA MK3 4000D/CD32 no signal at all

Is it re-capped, or does it still have the 20-year old caps that probably leaked by now?

It's recapped, and I have a CF Card adapter. I have tried without the CF Card.

Any specific brand/type of caps that has been used? I hear that there are problems with ceramic-only re-caps.

Is the PSU re-capped as well? I really can't think of anything else than a power spike if a simple re-try with the reset tool does the trick.

Timm could make a boot block verison of this reset tool to speed up the process of getting the monitor to work (not requiring a boot from HD), but that's only a symptomatic treatment - I'd like to get to the source, so your detailed answer about the caps used is highly appreciated.

They are Tantalum caps yes. The power supply has nichicon and some admittedly some panasonic ones. This power supply, I use as my main display one, powers several other amigas with no issues, they include a 500 with Vampire V2 and Indivision ECS V1, a 600 With Vampire V2 and Ecs Indivision and A Ratte Switch, a 500+ with RGBtoHDMI and PiStorm, and the 1200 of course before I put this Mk3 board in it. (one at a time of course)

Now, I did see a post somewhere that maybe my 1200 board needs some Commodore recommended Modifications? Removal of some capacitors or something? Not sure if that could be the issue.

And your reset tool, I have it as the very first thing in Startup Sequence. It never fails to make the board work (thank goodness)

Quote from ziggystar12

Now, I did see a post somewhere that maybe my 1200 board needs some Commodore recommended Modifications? Removal of some capacitors or something? Not sure if that could be the issue.

That's not startup behaviour, but bus timing - Caps E123C and E125C have no influence on Lisa and the flickerfixer.

Quote from ziggystar12

They are Tantalum caps yes.

Did you use the exact same capacitance values, or did you choose Tantalum for availability of higher capacitance in a smaller package? You normally don't need Tantalum in an Amiga, as there's enough space for standard aluminium oxide elcaps.

Good questions. I replaced those with the same value like for like Tants because I didn't want them to leak again in the future. If you have some ideas of the ones that would impact the power issue, I have a box of the Aluminum electrolytics on hand, happy to try and replace some of the tants to see if the issue goes away.

Indivision AGA MK3 only uses the +5V rail, so anything on that rail is suspicious.

Do you have the CA-PSU on your shopping list? If so, we can deliver the 240V version starting tomorrow. I don't want to push you towards buying this - after all, it's the most expensive PSU on the market, but I also believe it's the best in terms of it's fundamental data. So while your computer is still in the condition to safely trigger this bug, it would be great if you could try a CA-PSU.

I am in the USA so I need 110v or else I would have bought one! If you have a 110v version, I'll buy it for sure! Also, if you knew the cap numbers for this board on the 5V rail as you suggest, or can point me to a document that might outline that, I can give that a try. Why won't your power supply work on 110v? It looks like the brick in the picture is a laptop type power supply, those usually support 110 and 240v?

Quote from ziggystar12

If you have a 110v version, I'll buy it for sure!

Not yet - but it's getting closer. The manufacturer of a universal-input 60W PSU made a good offer for a unit that has exchangeable plugs and less than 45 days lead time. We're already discussing packing options. CE testing and tech review by the insurance are completed.

Quote from ziggystar12

if you knew the cap numbers for this board on the 5V rail as you suggest, or can point me to a document that might outline that, I can give that a try.

I'd have to look it up in the schematics - not sure if someone already did that kind of work. I'd start with the big bulk caps near the input filter.

Quote from ziggystar12

Why won't your power supply work on 110v? It looks like the brick in the picture is a laptop type power supply, those usually support 110 and 240v?

The 12V/5A supply that we've qualified was a pure 240V unit - the design was geared towards the EU market with it's extremely strict efficiency requirements, before the US has introduced this kind of law. We only have a few of them left.

Next batch we'll buy is universal input (90-240V AC), wall-plug (no extra AC cable) and exchangeable international plugs. Very similar to the 12V/2A unit that we're selling for the C64 Reloaded, but with more oompf on the output side

Ok, well I'll take a look at some of those caps and let you know what I find out in the next few days.

Quote from ziggystar12

I replaced those with the same value like for like Tants because I didn't want them to leak again in the future.

True, they won't leak. The problem with tantalum caps is that when they go, well, they GO - as in short, burn up, and/or blow off the PCB. Modern high quality aluminum oxide electrolytic caps / hybrids are the ideal choice, as Jens has mentioned.

Quote from thebajaguy

The problem with tantalum caps is that when they go, well, they GO - as in short, burn up

One problem of Tantalums that many people don't realize is that this fire cannot be extinguished, as the ingredients are all in the cap already: The fire does not need any oxygen to continue to burn.

Just to update you, I recapped the board back to standard aluminum capacitors. (not that many, really!) And I have the same result. The board doesn't detect unless I run your program.

I'd really like to replicate the effect here - seeing what happens on the logic analyzer might trigger the right idea for a fix.

Is there anyone in Europe who has this effect? Will pay for shipping the board, PSU and flicker fixer to Germany.

I might have to just send you my board.

..and probably the PSU as well, though I can only generate 110V/50Hz (not 60Hz) here. Will think of a way to generate 60Hz if the problem can't be replicated. Do you have means to get the board here for an affordable price?