ACA1232 and two A1200

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Don't Panic. Please wash hands.
  • Hi,


    I just like to have an opinion from you about an issue that I got in these days.


    I got a used A1200 from Marvin (recapped!) with an ACA 1232 (68030/40 no MMU) and an Indivison Mk2

    All is working great with that Amiga...


    I just moved the ACA 1232 (I know, is an old board but I like it a lot) from this Amiga to another one (in mint conditions but with all stock options that I'm going to test before buy) and on this Amiga the ACA stop machine at boot: not possible to see anything (no, the Mk2 is not migrated, only the ACA!).


    - I made test with three different power supply but nothing changes.


    - The board is a version 2B, stock. No capacitors changed or removed.


    - I cleaned the slot, checked for bent pins and try to move out 1mm but no results.


    Is this issue related to the 4 capacitors E121C E122C E123C e E125C that must be removed from the mobo?


    I'm looking to buy for this Amiga another accelerator (starting from a 1221lc) but I'm fear that I will have same issues even with a new generation of cards.


    For the moment just I bought a 1211 memory card with no CPU.


    Can you suggest me how to proceed in order to fix this issues? Could the new board generation be compatible and solve the problem itself ?


    Sorry to bother you,


    Regards,


    Livio S.

  • Is this issue related to the 4 capacitors E121C E122C E123C e E125C that must be removed from the mobo?

    Not all of them - E121C and E122C are not on the list any more. Only remove E123C and E125C - they are known to cause trouble.

    I'm looking to buy for this Amiga another accelerator (starting from a 1221lc) but I'm fear that I will have same issues even with a new generation of cards.

    The newer generation of cards is more tolerant to those timing quirks. However, I still recommend to remove the two caps.


    You should still get this A1200 to work with the ACA1232. It will most likely work with the ACA1211 without problems, but with the caps removed, the ACA1232 should start just fine.


    As for power supplies, don't just look for quantity (like "tried X different ones"). You need to look for quality. If all of them didn't age well, or are of the known-bad batches from Keelog, Elektroware and other MeanWell-based contraptions, there's no chance of success with any quantity of them. Please read our FAQ if you want to know more technical details.

  • Thanks a lot for your answer!


    I will remove the E123C and E125C, maybe in the Marvin's recapped motherboard this job was already done.


    About power supply: I have two Commodore's original (white and black editions) and one new from a polish seller from eBay, the PSU with a small LCD screen.


    They seems to have right voltage values measured with a digital tester but ... who knows.

    I will read FAQ in oder to find a better one.


    My only fear is that the board could have a problem with the slot. All others (power, capacitors, etc...) could be fixed.


    Thanks again for your time.

  • About power supply: I have two Commodore's original (white and black editions)

    If you re-cap them, they're currently the best you can get (until the CA-PSU is back, of course :-))



    and one new from a polish seller from eBay, the PSU with a small LCD screen.

    AVOID. They are exactly the ones why we have so many PSU-related problems here. The display is double-misleading, showing you exactly what the PSU is attempting to regulate, not knowing that the cable, connector and input filter form an oscillation circuit. Send it back for a refund. It is dangerous to your precious retro gear.


    They seems to have right voltage values measured with a digital tester but ... who knows.

    I happen to know :-) You need to measure under load, inside the computer, and also apply load changes. You'll see oscillation on the 5V rail.

    My only fear is that the board could have a problem with the slot.

    Clean the slot with IPA and a microfibre cloth (don't use contact sprays!), and if you still have trouble after removing the two caps, do a thorough optical inspection or re-flow of the Gayle chip.